To be a luxury brand
hermeskelly
جمعه 28 تير 1392برچسب:, :: 11:49 ::  نويسنده : Hermes kelly

Luxury shoe designer Rupert Sanderson may not have a major US presence yet–but this should definitely help: Not only will Barneys New York be carrying his line starting this fall, but he’s also collaborated with the retailer on an exclusive line of shoes.

Sanderson’s designs have graced the feet of celebs like Gwyneth Paltrow and Jessica Chastain, and earned him the British Fashion Council’s Accessory Designer of the Year award in 2008. But he has been slow in building his business stateside, which is why his Barneys debut–and four exclusive designs–is exciting news for his American fans.

We met up with Sanderson–who is polished and polite in the charming way that only the Brits have mastered–on Barneys’ amazing shoe floor to talk about collaborating with the retailer and what it’s like to see his shoes on the Duchess of Cambridge.

Fashionista: Tell me a little bit about your line and what you’re doing with Barneys.
Sanderson: The line is 12 years old and it’s out of London, but all made in our own factory in Italy. We’ve done some exclusives with Barneys, but I’ve enjoyed working with Barneys on getting the edit right so we’re representative of what the line stands for but also sympathetic to the Barneys customer.

What does it mean to you to be in Barneys?
My first appointments when I started the line were in New York, and it really was important to me that I get into Barneys. It takes time. It’s quite right that all the brands you see around have earned their fashion chops, so to speak. I love the idea of the Barneys woman. Barneys was somewhere I really imagined seeing the shoes on display and for sale, so it’s a thrill to be here and to be collaborating. It’s an arrival and a coming home at the same time.

It seems like your philosophy has been “slow and steady wins the race” in terms of building a brand–what has that process been like for you?
It has been slow and steady.Shoes, Cheap bottega wallet and more,free shipping!‎ I suppose because we’re not some mega corporation with great huge turnover aspirations and lots of money sloshing around to just accelerate growth, there’s a certain organic-ness and we’ve managed to control everything.

To be a luxury brand, you’ve got to be around for quite a long time, and I think people forget that. There’s a certain sense that you should arrive instantly, fully formed.Up to 40% Off Cheap bottega purses, shop farfetch today!‎ It’s a complicated business–making shoes that are exciting and relevant and commercially viable for four collections a year. It takes time to mature into it. And I think the benefits of growing slowly, are that you’re here to stay rather than burning too brightly, too quickly, where the only way left is down.

As you mentioned, there are a lot of established brands on the sales floor. How do you make Rupert Sanderson shoes stand out?
Hopefully by working with Barneys, because they have a helicopter view of what’s working, what’s lacking, what they’re looking for, and we can shape the edit to fit in so there is a point of view there.

It’s a strange thing when you’re working with accessories; you spend an amount of time developing the collection in isolation, you don’t know what anyone else is doing. When you present the collection, there’s a real strong story that you’re championing. There’s a risk that it’s just not quite right with the ready-to-wear, so you do have to listen to the buyers about what the edit’s going to be. At the same time you have to be true to what you really believe is good design. You’re looking for that fine balance between pushing the boundaries and being recognized for something. That simplicity, the idea that less is more, is what I’ve been championing: achieve as much as you can with as little material as possible. It rings true to my aesthetic.

Click on their website www.anmison.com for more information.



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